The Challenge of Sourcing Grapes

When winemaker Adrian Manspeaker checks on his grapes at the Phelps Vineyard, he drives three hours north from his Sonoma County home in Forestville. The journey is a long one, but Manspeaker isn’t deterred. He’s on a mission to prove that Humboldt County, a small and remote region in northern California, is a viable wine region. The challenge of sourcing grapes is significant. Humboldt County is over 2 million acres, with only about 150 acres of vines. The largest vineyard Manspeaker sources from is 17 acres, and most of the remaining grapes are planted in small, scattered vineyards throughout the county.

History of Wine in Humboldt County

Humboldt County has a long history of viticulture, dating back to the 1970s. Joe Collins, a pioneer in the region, co-founded Briceland Vineyards in 1985. Collins had moved to the area during the back-to-the-land movement and was intrigued by viticulture. “It was the right time and place,” Collins recalled. “All the baby boomers were just coming of age, and everyone started drinking wine. There weren’t enough grapes to go around.”
Others followed Collins’ lead and planted small vineyards throughout Humboldt. However, the cannabis industry, which is more lucrative than grape growing, has effectively stalled the growth of the wine industry.

The Impact of Cannabis on Humboldt’s Wine Industry

The cannabis industry has had a devastating impact on Humboldt County’s wine scene. Many of the county’s marijuana farms have been abandoned, and thousands of businesses have closed. Market oversaturation, expensive regulations, and high tax rates have contributed to the decline. “The harvest for cannabis and grapes happens at the same time, so there used to be lots of people around here to pick grapes,” said John Cabot, founder of Cabot Vineyards, which specializes in Syrah and Zinfandel.

Challenges of Growing Grapes in Humboldt County

Humboldt County is a tough place to grow grapes. The best spots to plant vines are on the steep and rugged hillsides, which are difficult and costly to farm. Those spots are also small, usually less than an acre, and wouldn’t be a compelling investment for large wine companies. “There’s a lot of unforested land up there,” said Collins of Briceland Vineyards. “It is possible. You just have to want to do it.”

Opportunities and Challenges

Manspeaker is optimistic about the potential of Humboldt County wine. He believes that the region’s cool and foggy climate, combined with its rugged terrain, makes it an ideal place for growing certain types of grapes. The current wine industry downturn, especially California’s grape glut, may condemn Humboldt’s wine scene to the underground. However, Manspeaker hopes to plant his own vineyard in Humboldt one day and is exploring ways to make his wines more competitive. “Why drive three hours and then one more on a dirt road to buy fruit,” he said, “when you drive by thousands of acres of vineyards to get there?”

A New Frontier

While Humboldt County has long been considered the heart of California cannabis cultivation, it is slowly emerging as a new frontier for California wine. Manspeaker’s efforts to promote Humboldt County wine are being met with interest from curious wholesale buyers and wine enthusiasts. As the cannabis industry continues to decline, Humboldt County wine may be the next big thing. With its rugged terrain, cool climate, and small-scale vineyards, Humboldt County is poised to redefine California wine.

“California is so overproduced now. The fringe areas get eliminated and only the best areas persist,”

– Todd Phelps, owner of Phelps Vineyard

Manspeaker is determined to prove that Humboldt County wine can hold its own against the big players. With its unique terroir and small-scale production, Humboldt County wine has the potential to surprise and delight wine enthusiasts.