Chinese restaurants are often associated with beer and sake, but Hop Alley’s wine program is proving that pairing Chinese cuisine with wine can be a game-changer. Wine Director Jacob Roadhouse is leading the charge, crafting a list of unusual and exciting wines that complement the bold flavors of Chinese food.
“I thought Hop Alley’s wine program was important to maybe 75 people in Denver, but to be recognized on a national level was very surprising,”
says Roadhouse, who was taken aback by the news of the restaurant’s James Beard Award semifinalist nomination. The recognition is a testament to the innovative approach Roadhouse and his team have taken to pairing wine with Chinese cuisine. Unlike other restaurants, Hop Alley doesn’t focus on traditional wine and food pairings. Instead, the wine list is designed to be a matchmaker, with wines that complement the bold flavors and aromas of Chinese food. “People think that [Chinese restaurants] have to have Cabernets and Sauvignon Blancs and a bunch of California Chardonnays to get people through the door. I guess we take the opposite approach to that,” says Roadhouse. The wine list is dominated by Old World wines, with a focus on Rieslings, Chenin Blancs, and Gamays. These wines are known for their acidity, fruit, and aromatic notes, making them perfect for pairing with the bold flavors of Chinese food. “We feature wines with lots of acid, fruit, and aromatic notes, such as Rieslings, Chenin Blancs, and Gamays, as well as a strong list of bubbles. It’s Old World–focused, with only a handful of California labels included. And there’s not a single Cabernet Sauvignon available,” says Roadhouse. One of the key factors in Hop Alley’s wine program is the emphasis on natural and low-intervention wines. “If I taste 100 wines a week, I might buy four,” says Roadhouse, who looks for young new producers and buys in on their wines before they become too expensive. This approach allows Roadhouse to showcase a diverse range of wines that are both unique and exciting.
- Wine Pairing 1: Egg Omelet & Chenin Blanc
- Wine Pairing 2: Octopus & Reisling
- Wine Pairing 3: Scallops & Chardonnay
| Wine Pairing | Dish | Wine | Pairing Notes |
| Egg Omelet & Chenin Blanc | Jidori egg omelet and fried oyster, caviar and fermented crab | Domaine Mark Angeli Ferme de la Sansonniere La Lune Chenin Blanc | The acidity of the wine tempered the richness of the eggs, and the richness of the fruit cut the spice. |
| Octopus & Reisling | Confit Spanish octopus with fermented tofu, Mokum carrot and green tomato | Max Kilburg Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett | The acidity in the wine was perfect for the light and umami-heavy fermented tofu. |
| Scallops & Chardonnay | Main dayboat scallop with sunchokes and cauliflower broth | Domaine de la Touraize Arbois Chardonnay | The acidity and saltiness of the Jura Chardonnay complemented the rich and sweet scallops. |
To experience the best of Hop Alley’s wine list, check out the chef’s tasting menu ($96; reservation required). Roadhouse will guide you through a selection of sommelier-picked wines that are designed to pair perfectly with the dishes. With its innovative approach to pairing wine with Chinese cuisine, Hop Alley is redefining the way we think about wine and food pairing. “When you have really incredible wine, eating becomes more than just feeding yourself,” says Roadhouse.